JOHN SINGER SARGENT & THE ART OF FASHION
American John Singer Sargent (1856-1925) was the portrait painter of the “rich and famous” of the Gilded Age, including members of royalty as well as millionaires (and their families). Few artists can rival Sargent’s flare for fashion, utilizing his creative skills to capture a variety of styles, from the sleek, simplicity of Madame Gautreau’s revealing gown to the ornate complexity of the Wyndham sisters’ striking costumes.
So enjoy this gallery of some of Sargent’s most unforgettable works, along with the comments of designer Coco Chanel, among others.
Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance.
Coco Chanel (1883-1971)
I like Madame X; it’s amusing how scandalous an off-the-shoulder strap could be when a dress that was designed to be off-the-shoulder was totally acceptable as a ball gown!
She’s chic and she knows it! Haughty by the look of her profile. Coco really did know fashion.
Fashion changes, but style endures.
Lady Agnew looks like a person I’d like to know…I love the soft colors of her dress…the lilac sash with the color picked up elsewhere…the unpretentious jewelry.
Soft colors and soft material of the dress plus her “come hither” look makes her very appealing. Coco sure did get it right!
Vain trifles as they seem, clothes have…more important offices than to merely keep us warm. They change our view of the world and the world’s view of us.
Virginia Woolf (1882-1941)
Mrs. Stokes seems even more of a person I’d like to know. I like that she’s not wearing a ball gown, but instead she’s in sporting clothes and standing with such self-possession and jauntiness…I love the crisp white of her dress which is so dominant in the picture…her husband seems overshadowed by her, but his head is noticeably bigger. I laughed when I looked up the painting on the Metropolitan Museum’s website and read that he was supposed to have posed with a Great Dane, but when the dog became unavailable, her husband “offered to assume the role of the Great Dane.”
She’s in the spotlight with her neutral clothing colors but her major clothing item is that long WHITE floor length skirt and that is the REAL eye interest of that portrait. It is about a diagram of neutral spaces…white, gold, black, etc. Virginia Woolf quotation. I agree that clothes can and do often affect how we view the world AND how the world views us!
Women think of all colors except the absence of color. I have said that black has it all. White too. Their beauty is absolute. It is the perfect harmony.
In the portrait of Madame Pailleron, I wonder whether she is holding down her skirt or pulling it up while the flash of the white petticoat may have been somewhat risqué. It certainly contrasts nicely with the white of her throat…
She is posed outdoors and yet she looks UNNATURAL. Mostly she is dressed in lacy black with touches of white. Her red hair adds to the drama. BUT she does not look contented!
Style is a simple way of saying complicated things.
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963)
The Wyndham Sisters are so opulently dressed and languidly posed…I wonder how the placement of the sisters was determined. The one on the right perched on the back of the sofa is the oldest and highest ranking one since she’s titled Lady Elcho and her sisters are just Mrs.
These three are delicious confections…What a lovely scene those three in their finery. Sargent really could paint satin, silk and lace as well as his portraits of those fashionable lovely ladies. How did he ever get all three to pose for him…maybe he just did one at a time? The Cocteau quotation is perfect.
A beautiful dress may look beautiful on a hanger, but that means nothing. It must be seen on the shoulders, with the movement of the arms, the legs, and the waist.
She is bathed in sunlight and is wearing a beautiful gown of sheer fabric. Her hair is so lovely. She looks the part of what was once “A Breck Girl” (a mid-20th century ad for shampoo). Coco says it perfectly.
We are expected to be pretty and well dressed until we drop.
Edith Wharton (1862-1937)
My favorite. The colors on the cushions and punt draw the viewer into the painting of the Lady and Child who are framed by those willows. Simply gorgeous! I think Edith Wharton got it RIGHT for her Gilded Age ladies! I am so glad I do not live in those times nor do I envy their life styles and wardrobes. I cannot remember the last time I actually wore a dress or put on high heels!